I’ve long been intrigued by the volcanic wines of Santorini. Take a tour of the wine blogs, and you’ll hear about their complexity, with tastes of citrus, flint-stone, jasmine, honey and toast. You’ve also heard, most likely, that that Santorini is a place of two things: the young, carousing in the hip bars in Oia and Fira, and the old, day-trippers who flood the streets, buying trinkets and never straying too far from the shuttle back to their cruise ship. Last month, I decided to find out myself and lucked into Grace Hotel.