Mauna Lani Dreaming
At a certain point in the Summer I start thinking, no dreaming, of the Mauna Lani, an Auberge Resort Collection hotel.
A Visit to an Auberge Resort Collection hotel on the Kohala Coast
by Lisa Alexander
At a certain point in the Summer when LA gets hot-- it might be about now --I start thinking, no, dreaming, no, yearning for Hawaii. The sand. The sea. The water. In particular, I dream of the Mauna Lani, an Auberge Resorts Collection hotel. It's just one of those places that got it right. The rooms are beautiful, the grounds are gorgeous, and the 2018 renovation hits all the right spots. You can feel the aloha at the Mauna Lani. It might be because most of the staff has worked there for decades, or the community involvement, or the spontaneous ukulele concerts that happen in the lobby; the staff at these properties always seem to own the place; you can feel their pride.
Sure, the resort has all the things you hope for in Hawaii --- it sprawls over 3200 acres with sacred fishponds, a turtle conservancy, ocean-facing pools, and a white sand beach--but it also has another of Auberge's standout features: fantastic F & B.
Three years ago I was there when chef Matt Raso from Nobu reimagined The CanoeHouse, the iconic Mauna Lani restaurant originally helmed by Alan Wong. Chef Rhoda Magbitang took over its legacy last October. A veteran of Melisse, AOC, and Jose Andres' Bazaar, Magbitang has worked in some of the best kitchens in L.A. and opened both the beloved restaurant Republique and The Inn at Mattei's Tavern, Auberge Resort Collection's property in Santa Barbara.
At CanoeHouse, Magibitang has begun by rebuilding and deepening the connections with local producers. The morning, I met her, she'd just sent her sous chef up the road to check out friends who'd started a macadamia farm.
"I still want to focus on Japanese techniques and Japanese flavors because I think they work really here," Magibitang said. "But also, not forgetting we're here in Hawaii where it's bountiful of everything."
Taking over at CanoeHouse is no small task; she's keenly aware of the responsibility of a legacy restaurant but also excited about her dynamic new (and delicious) new menu.
"I basically grew up cooking in California," she says. "I gravitate towards vegetables and produce and seasonal things. The framework that I'm working with at this restaurant is also really strong. A lot of really successful chefs have come through this kitchen - it was a blank canvas for them. So, I like going from that mindset, putting my stamp on things --vibrant, herbs, color, flavor, tight team. The CanoeHouse is the crown jewel of this hotel."
Vibrant veggies is right. Her carrots were intensely flavorful and spiked with toasted sesame, yuzu, labneh and a miso glaze. Her herb-strewn sugar snap peas contrasted brightly with a tangy/creamy island goat cheese, wasabi and pistachios. The Kabocha and Tofu, a bowl of hearty squash with tofu and moody mitake mushrooms, helped that first night when I was bleary with jetlag. Magbintang's Garlic Fried Rice with a sous-vide egg, and scallions supplied the finishing comforting touch.
In the Auberge Resorts I've visited, they always do well the usual hotel suspects- the pizzas, the spaghetti marinara, the burgers- but more excitingly, they choose talented, unusual and buzz-worthy chefs for their pop-ups. For one unforgettable collaboration at Chileno Bay, I was lucky enough to experience Mexico City's Masala & Maiz for the first time. This June the Mauna Lani has invited LA faves Chef Charles Namba and Beverage Director Courtney Kaplan of Camelia, Ototo, and Tsubaki, to do an Ototo collab at Surf Shack, one of Mauna Lani's other restaurants.
"We're really excited to bring a taste of Ototo to the Mauna Lani," says Namba. "[It will be a menu] that includes some of our most beloved dishes, reflecting the flavors and dishes of my Japanese American heritage and the seasons of California."
"Our dishes are created with the intention of pairing well with sake," adds Kaplan. "It's a thrill for me to curate a selection that not only goes perfectly with this limited-edition menu, but also with the warm breezes and salt air of the Kohala Coast.”
Going to Ototo in LA, or really any of Charles Namba's and Courtney Kaplan's restaurants is one of my favorite date nights. Now put it at the Mauna Lani- I might just have to go back to check this one out.
